Follow Me on Pinterest
The Minutiæ of Black Tie Etiquette 3 Articles

About the Furnishings

Shirt Studs | Cufflinks | Collar StudsMost definitely, the common man is repelled by the intricacies and time-consuming rituals of proper black tie regalia — the very appeal to the sartorialist. Admittedly, these processes come not intuitively to even the most adamant learner. Know then that there is little shame in being guided regarding their uses, for these furnishings’ presence is an integral part of the ensemble. Remember that each has a very particular and specific use. They are not interchangeable.

Commonly, the shirt studs, cuff links and waistcoat studs match each other. However, a man with exceptional style can make the final call on the aforementioned. What is most important is that these pieces are neither plastic nor built-in. Nothing says “bargain rental” like black, plastic studs. Consequently, the author even avoids black precious stone inlays, lest they be confused with their synthetic doppelgängers. Mother-of-pearl inlay solves this problem most soundly and goodly.

The effort applied to tracking down the ideal furnishings suited to one’s taste will go neither unheralded nor leave one unfulfilled. And the initial frustration and learning curve regarding their application will be rewarded ten-fold upon that very first glance 
in the dressing mirror. It may seem insignificant at the onset, but in every sartorial instance: the Details Conquer All. 

Instructions on employing these furnishings can be found thither.


The Minutiæ of Black Tie Etiquette:
About the Furnishings
by A. Gustav Bayer


 

Technique: Employing Shirt & Collar Studs

How To Shirt Studs | Collar StudsEngaging the shirt studs is arguably the most fickle task to master —

• Starting at the topmost stud eyelet, begin by placing the longer end of the stud through the front of the shirt. 

• Pull the spring-loaded end of the stud, allowing the whole of the shaft to pass through the eyelet. 

• Repeat this process with the corresponding rear eyelet until the shaft is securely through the shirt. 

This will undoubtedly require the adept use of the hands, inside and outside of the shirt. Repeat the entire process, downwards, with the remaining two studs.

The collar studs are quite a bit more manageable, and done so with the collarless shirt already on the body. 

• Starting with the rear stud, “open” the clasp and pass it through inside of the shirt, outward, followed by the collar. Promptly “close” the clasp of the stud. 

• The front stud is then engaged — first through the innermost and then the outer “tunic” of the shirt. 

• Following suit, pass the stud through the corresponding, alternating inner and outer layers of the standing collar.


The Minutiæ of Black Tie Etiquette:
Technique: Employing Shirt & Collar Studs
by A. Gustav Bayer
 

Technique: Employing Cufflinks

How To Cufflinks | Barrel CuffThere is nothing simpler in form than the barrel-roll cuff.  It’s obvious why it would be considered the perfect compliment to the black tie ensemble. The two sides of the cuff delicately kiss one another, only to be held in a sartorial embrace by a traditional link. 


• Place either end of the link through either outer side of the cuff. It tends to be a tight fit, so be diligent, but also be careful!

• Pass that same link facing through the remaining hole. It couldn’t be more simple.
If and when you decide to wear one of the appropriate alternatives to the traditional single-breasted, black dinner jacket, a French cuff is a quite acceptable substitute to the barrel roll. The two cuff styles are nearly identical in that both pinch closed at the bottom. But instead of the single cuff feature of the barrel roll, the French cuff folds back upon itself before being linked closed.

• See to it that the cuff has been folded over the top of itself, and that the cuff link holes are aligned.

• Place either end of the link through either outer side of the cuff, likewise through the second layer of that side.

• Pass that same link facing through the remaining holes.


The Minutiæ of Black Tie Etiquette:
Technique: Employing Cufflinks
by A. Gustav Bayer
All contents ©Duchess, Clothier 2014