A true formal shirt has very few details, but each are crucial to its sartorial success.  Foremost —

• The bib, or area that is seen once the jacket is on, must be as clean, white and stiff as possible.

• The bib must be closed with studs. 

• The collar must be a tall, standing wing collar, preferably detachable. Nothing is less correct than the modern-day soft, short, attached wing collar sold at retail.

• The cuff must be a single cuff, or barrel roll (not a French of informal button cuff). 

All of these uncompromising characteristics have sadly fallen prey to the strong hand of casuality, but are most easily furnished by the astute Duchess, Clothier. Huzzah! The correct application of the studs and the shirt itself, can be a bit daunting. However, these procedures are described in detail subsequently.

• Place either end of the link through either outer side of the cuff. It tends to be a tight fit, so be diligent, but also be careful!

• Pass that same link facing through the remaining hole. It couldn’t be more simple.

If and when you decide to wear one of the appropriate alternatives to the traditional single-breasted, black dinner jacket, a French cuff is a quite acceptable substitute to the barrel roll. The two cuff styles are nearly identical in that both pinch closed at the bottom. But instead of the single cuff feature of the barrel roll, the French cuff folds back upon itself before being linked closed.

• See to it that the cuff has been folded over the top of itself, and that the cuff link holes are aligned.

• Place either end of the link through either outer side of the cuff, likewise through the second layer of that side.

• Pass that same link facing through the remaining holes.