Duchess, Clothier - Duchess Blog

Duchess Blog 81 Articles

Custom 1960s Suits on the Young Veins

We love mod suits. So do nouveau mods, the Young Veins! Leader of the pack, Ryan Ross, is a long-standing darling of Duchess and has one of the largest collections in existence of Duchess finery.

Last year, Duchess had the pleasure of outfitting the whole band for some videos.

Aren't they super?

But there was a tragedy. These six amazing Duchess ensembles were STOLEN, along with the Young Veins' gear, from their tour bus. So if you see those suits out there.... Recover them!

Lord Whimsy's Moss 8 1/2.

In a nice post on his blog for dandies and bog plant-lovers, the good Lord Whimsy shows off a pic of his lovely moss green/grey 8 1/2 suit (with another haberdasher's shirts!). It is so boggy and beautiful, just like him. Aw.

The 8 1/2.

AN OVERVIEW

We would like to discuss our cornerstone suit, the 8 1/2. Somewhere around 80% of Duchess clients own one. There is a reason for this. The perfect first suit--a sartorial knockout in any situation, a complete chameleon traversing 2-piece and 3-piece incarnations with ease-- the 8 1/2 simply delivers in whatever sceneries the wearer may find himself in.

Inspired by the grace and timeless effortlessness with which the master Marcello Mastrioanni wore his suit in Fellini's 1963 cinematic masterpiece, 8 1/2, this suit is the smooth foundation of the Duchess wardrobe.

Well, of course it is. We like to say it is inarguable.

This suit has no bells and whistles. The premier feature of the 8 1/2 is simplicity, leaving it's awesomeness to behold in the realm of its immaculate fit. The 8 1/2, as with all Duchess suits, can fit its master in various ways. It is an excellent candidate for the sleek, slim lines of its natural 1960s fit, or it can be pared down to über-tight for the hip set, even loosened up a bit for a more casual vibe.

The 8 1/2 is available in our Fine Custom collection as well as our Scotch Basic. It's ubiquity is not limited to any range of fabrics. Duchess custom 8 1/2 suits exist in the usual spectrum of suiting, such as this classic black merino wool. Paired with a skinny plack tie, crisp white shirt, and a belt, this is truly the essence of the 8 1/2 style, ala it's inspiration.

A black 8 1/2 like this, especially as a three-piece suit, is an incredibly versatile choice. In a three-season, wrinkle resistant fabric like this merino wool, the 8 1/2 can last you for years, with zero risk of going out of style.

The power of wear as separates is also a huge bonus with the 8 1/2-- All three pieces, jacket, vest, and trousers have proven to be tried and true favorites amongst our clients for wear with the other articles in their wardrobes.

Several 8 1/2-wearers come back regularly for all their trousers to be copied from their original 8 1/2s! Of course we keep the patterns, so this makes shopping for pants easy and perfect. You just can't beat this suit and all of its potential.

Although it may seem anti-intuitive, the 8 1/2 is surprisingly also a go-to choice for bolder, crazier fabrics.

It may seem silly to boast our most simple design as the most far out as well, but actually, the simplicity of cut makes an excellent host for some of the louder fabric choices.

Here is an obscured glimpse of Joel K.'s wonderful Floral 8 1/2, created from vintage 1960s psychedelic fabric.

(A suit like this is sometimes elusive, refusing to be photographed, as it pales in comparison to beholding its glory in person. That has been the case so far with Joel's 8 1/2.)

Look, a close-up of the fabric, as we couldn't help creating a pocket square out of it.

SOME STATS

The 8 1/2 Jacket

Features a slim silhouette, slightly shorter than many jackets with minimal shoulder padding.

It's lapel swings graciously down to the navel, in a sleek, narrow arc (usually about 2.5" at its widest).

Simple, slightly angled pockets with tuck-able flaps provide a slimming line and enhance the overall vertical flow of this suit by refusing the severe shop of a horizontal line.

The classic, double-button jacket is finished with a simple back center vent and three cuff buttons on each sleeve.

The 8 1/2 Trousers

Many of our clients buy the 8 1/2 trousers en masse, as separates to pair with all elements of their wardrobe.

Of course the nuances of fit can be customized to your desires, but classically, the 8 1/2 trousers feature:

Extra long belt-loops that ensure the continue presence of your favorite belts.

A rise that can be any length appropriate, as these trousers work beautifully in a low-rise, hipster fit as well as a more traditional on-the-waist fit.

The leg that simply falls to touch the shoe, no obvious taper or widening-- it just follows the line of your leg, with no cuff.

The 8 1/2 Vest

Following with the ease of the other two pieces, the optional 8 1/2 vest is simply a classic.

A slim fit, medium depth of gorge (where the first button sits on the chest), and six buttons define the look.

Slightly angled welt pockets at waist level provide a pleasing line and a place to keep your pocket-watch, like a true gentleman.

The back of the vest can either be created with the lining fabric and finished with an adjuster, or it can be the full suiting fabric, for a more polished appearance when worn on its own.

FROM CLIENTS

The Church of Duchess

“Think of these as investments,” she said, handing you a freshly pressed 8 ½ three-piece suit.   Investments? These are not investments. These are vestments.

This is not a charming cocktail lounge, the late set, a mahogany bar. This is the Church of Duchess. The Mass. The apse. The altar. This Gibson, served up, generous on the vermouth, a trinity of onions, this is your communion. The body and blood of style. The Holy Spirit.

Your fellow patrons, the congregation, look toward you for the truth. They find it in your hand-stitched lapel, in the deep gorge of your vest. They find justice on the crisp shoulders, mercy in the soft herringbone. They tremble at the bright pocket square. They make a pilgrimage to the custom tie, asking forgiveness of your finely wrought French cuffs. When you open your jacket to retrieve your billfold they find temptation in the flash of silk lining. They do not resist. The congregation cries out. You speak to them. “Genuflect gentlemen. Seek out the Ladies of Duchess. Don your immaculate conception!”

This is the winning 8 1/2 short-essay from our previous web poll, by Benjamin V. (Congratulations, Benjamin, and keep an eye on your mailbox for your prize...)

"100F in NYC today,

and my new Oxford grey 8 1/2 was wonderfully cool."

– Don S., in two of the three pieces of his pinstriped oxford grey Fine Custom 8 1/2.

"It requires no thought,

and that is the best part."

-Pieter K., in his slick three-piece silver cashmere, silk & wool blend 8 1/2 .

"I absolutely love my suit. It is by far the most comfortable suit I have ever worn. It is customized in every way I could hope for. Every detail feels like it was specially made for me. It is the first suit I have felt that I truly own. Additionally, I must commend you on your top notch service. From my first phone call to my final fitting, you ladies made me feel like a worthy and valued customer. Your kindness, knowledge and grace are unmatched. In short, thank you for the best damn piece of clothing I've ever owned."

--Dan Z., getting hitched in his lightweight black cashmere wool three-piece 8 1/2.

"Thirsty in an 8 1/2. August, SW Montana."

--Nathaniel M. in HIS lightweight black cashmere wool three-piece 8 1/2, veritably teaching SUIT SCHOOL with his pocket watch and cowboy boots.

"Wore my 8 1/2 to shred the recessional at my friends wedding."

--Casey P., comfortable in his charcoal herringbone wool & cashmere 8 1/2.

"LOVE IT! I feel just like Marcello Mastroianni!"

--John B., hanging out 8 1/2-style in his grey herringbone three-piece number.

Some Recent, Uncensored Client Reviews!

★★★★★

Jun 5, 2011

Will F

I have never looked as good as I do in the suit that Lady Ariel fashioned for me. While my needs were not particularly complex (a 3-piece suit from their Scotch Basic collection in black) compared to some of their offerings, the process from measurement to fitting and final adjustments was straightforward and trouble-free. While it's certainly not the most affordable option around, this is an instance when you definitely get what you pay for. Thumbs up.

★★★★★

Jun 5, 2011

T.L.

I'm not terribly fashionable, nor do I wear a suit very often. That said, my experience at Duchess was very unique. If you've never had a garment of any time made for you, you have to give Duchess a try. They have tons of styles and YOU are the creator....I was making decisions on things that were totally shocking. So, however you wish to look, you KNOW you will get there in Duchess. If your vision was weak like mine, they helpful ladies at Duchess will walk you step by step thru the process.

★★★★★

Jun 2, 2011

Spencer B

I was happy to work with Duchess Molly on my suit for my upcoming wedding. It was my second experience with buying a suit but I felt that the level of service and quality of the fitting appointment provided by Molly was unmatched. I will continue to use them in the future for all of my tailoring and suit needs.

★★★★★

May 30, 2011

J.F.

Molly helped me navigate the incredible number of options they offer. I had no idea how many different decisions needed to be made for a custom suit but she helped create a fantastic garment for my wedding.

★★★★★

May 22, 2011

H.L.

My partner and I were very happy with how easy it was to get suits fitted for both of us (women) and how beautiful we both are going to look for our wedding!

★★★★★

May 6, 2011

Don S

I got fitted for a custom Mr. Famous and had modifications made for two 8 1/2s for work purposes. Ariel was thorough, helpful and efficient, and the suits look amazing.

★★★★★

Apr 19, 2011

J.C.

Got fitted for a Mssr. Famous 3-piece from Scotch collection. Got advice about other suits for wedding party. Got a good deal on all suits. Didn't get pressured to select upgrades, which I like, but was informed of options to upgrade and the costs.

★★★★☆Apr 15, 2011

S.H.

Duchess, is a great team of Girls offering a unique experience in Modern tailoring. I had 2 shirts custom made. and really well executed. Only issue was it took 3 months to get them so you better be able to plan ahead.

★★★★★

Apr 10, 2011

cedric justice

I've been a customer of Duchess Clothier for four years. Simply put, it is all I wear. Having a custom suit is something everyone should experience at least once: no more trying to fit your body into a mould... Instead the clothes are made to fit you and your shape. The bonus with Duchess, though, is the creative process. I get to consult with them for each suit made, which is customized to a theme and an era.

★★★★★

Apr 1, 2011

Peter K

I don't typically review anything, but my experience at Duchess was fantastic. The process seemed to have nothing to do with the store making as much money on me as possible, and everything to do with getting me in a suit that I'd look great in and be able to wear multiple times. With almost any possibility in a suit you could want, I felt it would be a stressful meeting. Instead, it was painless and thoroughly enjoyable. If you want a great suit and and ever better experience, go to Duchess.

★★★★★

Mar 29, 2011

Benjamin M

Great experience. The fitting was low key and amusing. If you can meet with them, it is well worth the time. The Duchess staff is also very flexible and willing to work with their customers.

★★★★★

Mar 28, 2011

Gregory K

I have been an on-line customer of Duchess, but finally got to meet them in person this weekend in SF. A great experience! They are very professional but not stuffy; despite my obvious ignorance of some sartorial basics, it was a great appointment and I look forward to doing business with them again. Their website is great, but don't hesitate to contact them on the phone, I have never been unsatisfied. Great customer service and good people!

★★★★★

Mar 24, 2011

Mollika R

I would highly recommend this service, which is more of an experience, to anyone! They are extremely thoughtful, diligent and friendly. They took care of me and my boyfriend via email and when we came in for the service they were extremely prepared, knew everything about us and were ready to help. The process itself, once inside the store is incredible, they are very knowledgeable, helpful and make sure you stay within your budget! Everyone should try this out, you will be very pleased!

★★★★★

Mar 8, 2011

Mike Bratty

Everything is right when it comes to the Duchess experience. Do yourself a favor and treat yourself to the Duchess way of things. I hope to look as good as they make you feel.

★★★★★

kfann

I haven't ever had a custom suit, and I took some time to research different places. Duchess has plenty of flavor, but not overwhelming, vinage style, and all the extra touches: custom silk lining, vests, buttons that actually button. Perfect for impressing friends and intimidating enemies. If you're lucky, you'll get to work with Lady Ariel. Prepare to be charmed, my friends. In short, I can't wait to wear this suit.

★★★★★

Feb 21, 2011

M.B.

Duchess has it down. The last suit I had purchased was over 20 years ago, never fit right and came from a major department store. I was reluctant to go through that process again. However, I did want some new suits, one's that I could wear daily and be comfortable. Ariel was able to take me through the options and I was on my way to 2 new suits. I'll be back yearly to add to my Duchess collection. Thanks Ariel! If you are on the fence, just do it, you will not be disappointed.

★★★★★

Feb 20, 2011

C.Y.

I love their level of service and professionalism. However, I did not feel like I had to spray on extra starch to go in. I was also extremely satisfied with the shirt that I purchased; out of a huge range of possible combinations from fabrics, collars, and cuffs, they were able to help me narrow down the shirt that was right for me.

★★★★★

Feb 16, 2011

C.M.

i love working with ariel. sitting on that couch while she talks to you about options and shows you fabrics is half the magic of duchess custom clothier. i recently went in to order suits for friend's wedding, and ariel easily and charmingly accommodated the requests of both me and the bride-to-be while also entertaining the groom's jokes about theme outfits. it's only a shame that i'd had something made before and didn't get to go through the wonderful ritual of measurements again.

★★★★★

Feb 13, 2011

Cooper

The Duchess ladies were amazing! Everything they had was super dapper and well made. I haven't gotten my suit yet but I am sure it will be fabulous. They were super nice, funny, non-judgmental, and professional. I could really tell they knew what they were doing and love their jobs. Also very reasonably priced.

Duchess Custom Suits in San Francisco

San Francisco folks will have the chance to get outfitted by Duchess during our next visit,

June 23rd - June 25th

at a private location in Cole Valley

Our traveling Duchess will be on hand for appointments to help Bay Area folks into the custom suits and custom shirts or their most dapper imaginings. We will have everything you need to get yourself in some fine sartorial magic by Duchess!

Please contact us to set something up, or with any questions!

Something like this, perhaps? Just an idea.

Duchess, Clothier has an excellent reputation for providing specialized and personal service to achieve just the right custom suits and shirts for our clients.

Some recent thoughts on the process from some of our clients:

"I have never looked as good as I do in the suit that Lady Ariel fashioned for me. While my needs were not particularly complex (a 3-piece suit from their Scotch Basic collection in black) compared to some of their offerings, the process from measurement to fitting and final adjustments was straightforward and trouble-free. While it's certainly not the most affordable option around, this is an instance when you definitely get what you pay for. Thumbs up." - Will F.

"I'm not terribly fashionable, nor do I wear a suit very often. That said, my experience at Duchess was very unique. If you've never had a garment of any time made for you, you have to give Duchess a try. They have tons of styles and YOU are the creator....I was making decisions on things that were totally shocking. So, however you wish to look, you KNOW you will get there in Duchess. If your vision was weak like mine, they helpful ladies at Duchess will walk you step by step thru the process" - T.L.

"I got fitted for a custom Mr. Famous and had modifications made for two 8 1/2s for work purposes. Ariel was thorough, helpful and efficient, and the suits look amazing." - Don S.

May Newsletter

Scientists Baffled by Oregon Mystery: Duchess Holds Key

Duchess Needs to Hire Two Amazing People!

DUCHESS IS HIRING!

Duchess, Clothier is a tiny company committed to personalized service and designing fine custom suits and shirts. We hold almost ridiculously high scruples in business and customer service. We have an excellent reputation that continues to grow locally and nationally due to our high quality products and service. We take great care with every customer and garment we deal with to ensure that the process of getting custom garments made at Duchess is as special as the garments themselves.

Duchess is a very unique company and we seek very unique people only; people who will enrich our lives, and those of our customers. Duchess is comprised of friendly, thoughtful, positive, intelligent, level-headed, self-motivated and progressive people who all believe that work should be a part of life’s enjoyment, and not something to live life around. We all take extreme pride in our work and our commitment to maintaining a positive work environment. We are likewise committed to maintaining these truths as we grow, and to ensuring that all of our associates bring unique value to our business. In such a small company, it is imperative that all members of the team are not only competent, but positive, dedicated, flexible, and nearly superhuman. It is important to all of us that we only expand our tight-knit team to include people with whom these ideals resonate.

Administrative Assistant/Receptionist/Sales Floor

This special gem is the main contact person, face, and office problem-solver for our Portland showroom. Part receptionist, part computer wizard, part salesperson, this mutli-talented individual possesses not only abundant interpersonal skills, but also naturally practices extremely anal attention to detail. This person will be described by friends as "an information sponge," "a total Virgo/Capricorn," "a perfectionist--but in a good way," and also, "a people person," and "my savior."

We require a singly awesome future Duchess to possess the following traits, skills, and qualifications for this position:

Exceptional attention to detail in all areas

Ability to follow specific directions

Exemplary customer service-oriented e-mail communication skills

--proper grammar and spelling

--enthusiastic and witty turns of phrase

--mastery of modifying and personalizing form emails, with attention to specific client needs

Excellent grooming and appropriate personal professional style

Vivacious personality for engaging people in person and on the phone

Awesome powers of analysis in prioritizing a lot of detailed things that all need to be done right now

Excitement and satisfaction in doing a good job and checking things off the list with every t crossed and i dotted

Highly organized and a natural tidy-er

Ability inclination, and motivation to step and fix the broken printer, call the phone company, handle administrative fix-it projects of this nature

Computer skills:

Mac OS X

Fast and proficient at computers in general (For example: command+c = Copy, not Menu-->Edit-->Copy)

Learns new programs and platforms quickly

Internet research wiz

Mac Mail

MS Word and Excel (proficient in formatting and spreadsheets)

Intricate database (Solve360)

Sales/Consultant/Design Representative

If this is you, you’ll know it. This is a hardcore position requiring expert knowledge of menswear and the history of men’s fashion, a personal sense of style and confidence, and extreme precision. This rockstar will work in our showroom, meeting with our awesome and extremely varied clients to collaboratively design suits and shirts, take measurements, and perform fittings for alterations. This inspiring and comfortable-to-be-around person needs to be adept at low-pressure, personalized and genuine one-on-one sales and subsequent fittings with our clients. This future Duchess must be a natural people-person who inspires confidence in others, is an intuitive communicator, and is also grounded. People want to confide in this person and trust her* judgment. This stellar go-getter is constantly complimented on her personal style, as well as how “real” and dependable she is.

This position follows the whole custom suiting process and requires a high level of personal integrity and follow-through. Each of our representatives is responsible for her own clients from the initial consultation, sale and measurement, to the tedious process of accurately documenting the fit and placing the orders using strict procedures, and finally through to fittings and follow-ups with clients. Performing alterations may also be required.

Duchess is dedicated to personal service for our clients. We believe strongly that people should have an intimate relationship with their clothing, and that custom clothing should be accessible. The person in this position is the main conduit for this philosophy—she seals the deal (which was begun with first Duchess contact) that we are truly amazing.

This position also may be part of a larger movement, with filed trips and/or relocation to a possible satellite showroom in San Francisco.

Requirements:

Excellent and professional communications skills in person, on the phone, and via email

Highly self-motivated

Extremely refined ability to learn quickly

In-depth technical knowledge of and experience with apparel in patterning, construction, and fit strategies

Experience performing fittings on clients for alterations

Masterful skill is performing alterations and ability to learn and perform them in established ways

High attention to detail in person and in documentation

In-person sales experience

The ability to work effectively alone and in a small team

Punctuality and proven ability to responsibly work independently

Excellent grooming and appropriate personal professional style

Computer skills: intermediate understanding and experience in Mac OSX, Apple Mail, scanner operations, MS word, intricate database (Solve360), Illustrator a plus.

Legible penmanship

Proficiency operating a digital camera and downloading photos

College degree in apparel or comparable experience

APPLICATION PROCEDURE:

For both of these positions, application requirements are as follows.

Please e-mail your resume and a cover letter to seyta@duchessclothier.com and CC both ariel@duchessclothier.com and daniel@duchessclothier.com on your email.

Please be sure to include the following in your cover letter:

Which job you are interested in

Why you are interested in this job

What your particular strengths are pertaining to this job

A little something about yourself personally so we can get to know you a little bit

Anything else you would like for us to know about you

One attachment of something you are proud of that you have accomplished (artwork, design project, awesome spreadsheet, just something!)

No phone calls please. If you would like to drop off your materials in person, please also e-mail them.

*Personal pronouns at Duchess are generally defaulted to the feminine for obvious reasons. However, Duchess is an equal opportunity employer.

Duchess in San Francisco June 23-25

Duchess in Cole Valley Thursday June 23rd - Saturday June 25th

Filling out our Inquiry Form is always the best way to get on the schedule!

Duchess will be meeting clients in San Francisco for new appointments and fittings in this sweet home-away-from-home in Cole Valley. We have a rapidly increasing number of excellent customers in the Bay Area and we are committed to treating them right! You can expect to see more of Duchess in your fair surrounds, on a regular basis. Please help us spread the word, so that we make a habit of it!

Our traveling Duchess will be on hand to meet with you for your custom clothing needs. She will be armed with fabric and style samples, tape measure and insanely astute knowledge and taste in all matters sartorial.

Appointments fill up quickly in the limited time we have on such a whirlwind trip, so please contact us soon and help us spread the word!

Site Updates and Continuing Improvements

Hello, fine friends of Duchess!

We are pleased to show you this new website design. I also want to let you know that I will be continuing to update the current content, and add more fun and photo-filled pages regular, so please stay tuned!

I would like to give special thanks to Jared Moran, Maia Engel, and Gogol Bordello for helping me achieve this functional new website.

Love,

Lady Seyta

Founding Duchess

NEW Wedding Packages!

We are excited to announce our new wedding packages for grooms and groomsmen, which allow freely choosing from hundreds of suiting, lining, shirt and tie fabrics for the perfect wedding ensemble!

We have put together five packages for grooms and their men to be able to have the ideal ensembles for the wedding and beyond. We have done all of the work for you in making the options straightforward and appealing to all!

Take these gents, for example. Don't they look happy?

More information here.

Vintage Vixen on Duchess: A sort of before and after....

We were so pleased to discover this wonderful blog entry about us on Vixen Vintage this summer featuring a wonderful old-fashioned, custom suit by Duchess, and we thought it would be nice to share it with you, as well as the glorious aftermath.

Now, check out the newly revealed results of this auspicious meeting.

Introducing, Josh in his fine Duchess suit, in just enough time for a family wedding!

Solanah (Vixen Vintage), happy newlyweds, and Dapper Josh.

Oregonian Features Duchess

Duchess custom suits are featured in the Oregonian, big-time! We are pleased to share this wonderful feature story coming out in the Oregonian tomorrow about Duchess, men's suits, and our wonderful clients. Thank you Faith, Kristi, Leo, Daniel and Max! (Please click on the photo for the story!)